![]() The Craig Green studio is split in two: one half is a traditional clothing atelier, the other Green calls ‘more like a workshop. ‘At what point in your life do you stop aspiring to be that man?’ he said after the show. They spoke to what Green calls the fallacy of the ‘useful man’, the gap between who you are and what you want to become, something he says is drummed in from childhood. It was interesting because it‘s like: what are the medals for and what are they decorating?’Īs such, the moulded leather accoutrements that the models carried – ‘the baggage and decorations of many decades’ – were one of the collection’s earliest ideas. ‘I found these images of the “most decorated man in history” who’s wearing hundreds and hundreds of medals. ‘I guess I was thinking about how decoration can feel like a dirty term in fashion – like you are decorating something to look better than it is, disguising something,’ Green says. Here, he said he was thinking about the idea of the ‘decorated man’ – photographs of soldiers adorned with hundreds of medals for service. Last season, concertina handbags were made in a factory that usually produces anaesthetic pumps for hospitals. Such obscurities have become signatures of Green’s work, which often combines the simplicity of archetypal menswear garments – particularly those derived from workwear and uniforms – with strange flourishes like circular cut-out peep holes, elaborate tie fastenings, or otherworldly textures (in the S/S 2023 collection, a metallic silver fabric looked crumpled like paper, while swathes of quilted fabric were printed with abstracted patterns reminiscent of traditional school sports uniforms). ![]() ‘They were water canisters that you couldn’t drink from, a suitcase that you couldn’t use.’ ’I thought it was interesting that they resembled functional items, but they no longer had any purpose,’ Green explains. As such, models walked the runway with various objects strapped to or balanced on their body: suitcases, bridle stirrups, water bottles, hats, each one crafted from a shell of moulded leather.
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